Mellow in Mulege

Celebrated Hank's Birthday on Playa Santispac

Celebrated Hank’s Birthday on Playa Santispac

December 8, 2013 We have now arrived in Mulege as we continue to venture northward after spending 3 days on Playa Santispac.  A few days ago we said our goodbyes in La Paz to Gerry & Ilona who decided to drop off at Campestra Maranatha, we are scheduled to pick them up on January 26, 2014.  The picked a great location to spend some quality time for the next few weeks, so much to do and see in La Paz, particularly over the holidays.  I know they will have so much to tell us when we see them again in the New Year.

On our way to Puerto Escondidio we stopped for fuel and a lunch stop at the Pemex in Ciudad Insurgentes and just prior to Wagons Ho I noticed one of my trailer tires quickly flatting out.  Well our group suddenly became like a well oiled Nascar pit stop, between Dom, Hank & myself we had the spare on and the flat changed in 10 minutes good to go.  It is all about the team work, thanks guys!  We rolled into the Marina at Puerto Escondido as anticipated and folks were just amazed at the infrastructure when we arrived.  Hank and Dom were really in their glory having all these sailboats in sight.  Our dinner at Pedro’s Porto Bello Restaurant was delicious although a little slow coming, no wonder with only one cook and one waiter on staff, who worked very hard to get everything out together.  Everyone appreciated their hard work and earnest efforts.

Later Jo & Sera gave us a heads up about a mass of feeding fish alongside the inside harbour wall, there were so many the water seemed to be boiling, the next morning they were still going at it.  We believe they may have been yellowtail, but really not sure. 

Our first stop on our drive to Playa Santispac was the scenic overlook adjacent to Juncalito, always a favourite amongst the groups.  North of Loreto at KM 24 we found the Military Checkpoint very thorough but friendly and our subsequent KM 31 had been much improved with all the road construction, now easier to get on and off Hwy 1.  We were also treated to some playful dolphins along our shoreline drive on Bahia Concepcion prior to our destination.

Fred with the Gulls

Fred with the Gulls

Our 3 days on the beach have been a little different then we came down.  The first day we had into town for the Annual Art Show, very cool for sure.  A little cooler for sure with some rain on our 2nd day and not much water time.  In between the rain showers the Pizza man arrived who was very popular in an instant, in a heartbeat the gang were in their rigs eating pizza.  The last day on the beach the weather started to turn for the better, sunny skies began to return and warmer temperatures.  That was good as we celebrated Hank’s birthday who was able to get out for a couple of Kayak paddles.  Fred & Brenda had gone to Santa Rosalia for propane and stopped at the prison to check out the gift shop and picked up a nice birthday gift for Hank. A few of us had dinner at Playa Santispac Restaurant the special was Corbon Bleu, very good indeed at 90 pesos.  Thank to Bruce & Marion we had a fire and were joined by George & Joanne who we met on Requeson a few years ago.  On the last day at the beach we had a nice surprise visit from Tony, Ursula and their daughter Julie, on Baja for a short visit.  Our stay on Santispac also saw us visit Bob & Linda, Keith & Yvonne and Bob & Pam; some of these folks we will run into again in January.

Always good to catch up with old Baja friends

Always good to catch up with old Baja friends


After our arrival today we headed off for a short visit to Mulege to drop off some laundry, hit the ATM and pick up at couple items at the grocery store.  Later we all headed back town and had dinner at Los Casistas, Javier has a great place with wonderful ambiance not unlike the Hotel Serenidad.  Today we are meeting for breakfast with Bruce & Marion at Equipales then we have an excursion at 10 am that will include the Lighthouse and Loma Linda.

Did you know?

A regular stop for us on tour always includes the Hotel Serenidad, located just south of Mulege, the gateway to the beautiful Bahia Concepcion.  The hotel has 7 RV spaces that include power, water, showers and dump stations at each site, all along the back of the parking lot.  These are not particularly fancy, however very practical, reasonably priced and best of all a 30 second walk from the Hotel Serenidad, a real Baja treasurer for sure!  Two (2) different WiFi are available, one in the restaurant and another in the bar, which can be accessed from the outside patio and poolside.  The restaurant opens at 6am for the early birds and closes late as long as patrons want to stay and enjoy the ambiance.  

This is likely heading to South America

This is likely heading to South America

Mulege to many Baja travelers means the Hotel Serenidad, a tropical fly-in resort down near the mouth of the Santa Rosalia (or Mulege) River.  Many guests fly private planes into the adjacent airstrip.  The 4,000’ x 125’ graded strip is no longer called “Serenidad,” having been renamed “El Gallito.”  Over the years the hotel has drawn such regulars as John Wayne, Will Rogers, Olivia Newton-John and many other celebrities.  When folks think of the Serenidad, they usually think about its affable host, Don Johnson.

How would you like to wake up to this?

How would you like to wake up to this?

The hotel Serenidad has a long and fascinating history.  The Serenidad (Serenity) Hotel was originally developed in 1961 by Leroy Center.  Don Johnson, who had earlier been part of the Loma Linda with Lou Federico, was the Serenidad’s boat manager during the 1960s.  Later, with partners Fernando del Morel and Chester Mason, Johnson bought the resort in 1968.  Don Johnson and his wife Nancy, has owned the Serenidad ever since, his name synonymous with the place.  The airstrip next to the Serenidad has always been and still is the main source of travelers for the hotel.  By the early 1970s the hotel offered modern accommodations, patio dining, a bar, and a new swimming pool.  The Serenidad became like its name, serene, with large, beautifully furnished rooms strung out across tropical grounds.  A large outdoor patio was built and is still used for dining alfresco.

Always a great sunrise at Puerto Escondido

Always a great sunrise at Puerto Escondido

Johnson, who seemingly has been around forever, actually hasn’t, only almost forever.  He personally discovered Mulege in 1960, arriving that first time by boat from San Felipe.  Born in Springfield, Illinois, he was raised in San Jose, California.  At age 35, looking for a change and a better opportunity, he left San Jose to return to Baja, settling in Mulege.  Don married a local girl, Nancy Ugalde Gorosave, the granddaughter of Mulege area rancher Don Jose Gorosave and raised three daughters, Diana, Sara Laura and Sandra Lynn, until recently the oldest Diana ran the hotel.

 Saturday Night Pig Roast

Don started a tradition that has been going strong for almost 45 years, we have attended many.  Every Saturday night is a Pig Roast and Baja pilots still fly in just for the feast which includes one margarita, all the roast pig you can eat and sometimes live music or other entertainment.  The tradition began as an occasional weekend celebration. 

What a view eh?

What a view eh?

 Ray Cannon, author of the bestseller, Sea of Cortez, wrote about the Serenidad and the beginning of the pig tradition in 1970: “Most of our group stayed at the Hotel Serenidad, where another old friend, Don Johnson, is co-operator and where he sees to supplying gas and supplies to the boats at his pier.  Don had a whole pig barbecued for us on an old style spit beside the outdoor dining veranda.  The evening was a gay one…”

Heavy but beautiful

Heavy but beautiful

 Occupation of the Hotel Serenidad  On July 14, 1996 three decades of serenity at the Hotel Serenidad came to an abrupt end.  It was a Sunday, and the hotel was packed with such regulars including a Superior Court Judge from San Diego, when 94 Mexican locals invaded and occupied the hotel.  This was a dispute over land ownership and the ejidatarios, or Mexicans who own land communally, evicted the owners and guests and seized the rooms, dining room, pool bar and airstrip.  Locals in cowboy hats replaced well-heeled tourists beside a pool which was soon filled only with two inches of green pond scum. 

 Ultimately Don Johnson & Nancy Ugalde de Johnson, a fifth-generation Mulege native, spent six months in court to prove that Nancy, Mexican born and bred, was the legal owner.  Eventually a federal judge in Mexico City ruled that they had legal title to the land.  As we all know the hotel did reopen, however things were never quite the same with underlying tension amongst some members of the community in Mulege years later.

 Baja Legend Don Johnson

Dom , Grady & Diane

Dom , Grady & Diane

Don has put his heart and soul into the Hotel Serenidad and has always been a true Mulege champion and promoter.  He never stops working on ways to improve the Hotel which is quite remarkable given the multiple hurricane and floods they have suffered just in the last 10 years.  Last season we showed up with the caravan and Don was in the parking lot directing a dump truck with a load of new gravel for the parking lot.  When Don saw us he grabbed a shovel to spread the piles around so not to catch the bottom of the RVs, not bad for a guy closer to 90 then 80 years old.  For the last couple of years he has been working on a new RV Park on the adjacent Shangila property, he knows that many of the larger RV caravans bypass Mulege because they have no where decent to stay that accommodate 20-to 30 rigs.

Mulege Art Show

Mulege Art Show

 Although Don no longer personally runs the hotel he still serves as the unofficial ambassador at the Serenidad, constantly visiting and chatting with his guests.  It’s a comfortable role for him, as in 1980 he became the American consulate in Mulege, a job he performed for 13 official years and 20 unofficial ones.  Don loves to tell stories and engage the guests, he always has time to answer questions about the area, the history or listen to whatever it is you want to talk about.  You can always count on Don to be one of the most interesting and gracious hosts Mulege has to offer.

Whether you are RVing or not make sure to drop into the Hotel Serenidad and experience the unique character and tranquil ambience of this establishment, decades in the making, a real Baja treasure.  Don’t forget about Nancy’s gift shops and be careful of those Margaritas made by Roman!

Gallery

Cabo San Lucas - main beach El Requeson, Bahia Concepcion Playa Juncalito Cabo Pulmo - a room with a view Cabo Pulmo on the East Cape La Ventana El Requeson Bigger-is-Better-in-Costco-Cabo San Lucas Playful Baby Grey Whale in Scammon's Lagoon